Thursday, June 09, 2016

PILOT GUIDES FOR THE MOUTH OF MOBILE BAY FROM 1823 AND 1839:

PAGE 145-146, COLOMBIAN NAVIGATOR; OR, SAILING DIRECTORY FOR THE AMERICAN COASTS AND WEST INDIES, 1823

The Massacre Island [ed. note: present-day Petit Bois Island) is rather more than 2 miles distant from Horn Island ; and between the two is a flat, with only 6 feet of water : the island is about 8 miles in length, very narrow, but remarkable, because it has a thicket of trees on its middle part, while there is not a tree on the rest of it. From Massacre to Dauphin Island, the distance is 4 miles, and a shoal extends almost the whole way. Dauphin Island is about 6 miles in length, and two in width, where broadest. The western part of it is a narrow tongue of land, with some withered trees ; the rest of it is thickly covered with pines, which, at the east part, almost come down to the beach.

Dauphin Island forms the west part of the entrance of the Bay of Mobile ; and, on the north, another island, named Gillori (ed. note: present-day Little Dauphin Island), succeeds it : from this to the continent there is a chain of shoals, through the straits, among which boats only can pass. Within a mile to the south of Dauphin Island is Pelican Island, which is arid and small ; about 3 miles from Pelican, to the east of it, is the east point of the bay, which is named Mobile Point, upon which there is a fort, and a thicket of low bushes.

MOBILE, — Between Dauphin Island, Pelican Island, and Mobile Point, there are shoals extending out from all of them, and which leave a channel of only about one-third of a mile in width ; these shoals extend to the southward about 4 miles ; and this is the length of the channel, in which there are from 4 to 7 fathoms, except at its beginning, where there are only 15 or 16 feet. The most certain mark to cross the bar in the deepest water by, is to bring the east end of Dauphin Island to N.W. by N., [N. 26° W.] and, following this course until Mobile Point and Fort bear, N. 1/2 W. [North] at the distance of 4 miles, you will be very near to the step of the bar, in 7 fathoms : from this spot, instantly, and in another heave of the lead, you may be past the bar, and be again in deeper water. It ought always to be kept 'in mind that this bar, being so very steep, is continually altering when there is a swell on ; therefore, no vessel drawing above 10 feet ought ever to attempt crossing it in bad weather. The first direction of this bar is towards Dauphin Island, by which you ought to steer at more than the distance of a mile ; and, having passed the knee of the east shoals, direct yourself to the N. by E. 1/2 E. for Mobile Point, to the north of which you may anchor in 5 or 6 fathoms, but without shelter ; for the bay is very large, and the current in it very rapid.

 From Mobile Point to the fort and town, which are on the northernmost part of the west coast, the distance is 9 leagues, and the depth diminishes gradually from 3 to 2 fathoms and less water.

The Town of Mobile, at the mouth of the River Tombigbee, is built on the side of a hill. It was, formerly, a city of considerable importance, is pretty regular, of an oblong figure, and situated on the west bank of the river. The Bay of Mobile terminates at a little to the north-eastward of the town, in a number of marshes and lagoons, which subject the inhabitants to fevers and agues in the hot season. Fort Conde, which stands near the bay, towards the lower end of the town, is a regular fortress of brick, and there is a neat square of barracks for soldiers.

Large vessels cannot go within 7 miles of the town, so great a part of the bay being shoal. On the shores are great numbers of alligators, as well as in the rivers and lagoons.

Mr. Darby says that, " Above the bay, the river of Mobile presents an appearance nearly similar to that of the Mississippi ; but the banks of the bay are generally high, and not subject to inundation. "

 Between the localities on the Mississippi and Mobile rivers there exists a very strong contrast. From the shortness of its course, the latter is scarcely subject to any of the evils attending an inundated country, when compared to the former. The floods of the Mobile are sudden, and soon subside : they occur at most seasons of the year, but are most abundant in spring. Before the violent heats of summer, the waters of the Tombigbee and Alabama are abated, and their swamps are, in a great measure, drained.

PAGE 194-195, COLOMBIAN NAVIGATOR; OR, SAILING DIRECTORY FOR THE AMERICAN COASTS AND WEST INDIES, 1839

MOBILE — Between Dauphin Island, Pelican Island, and Mobile Point, there are shoals extending out from all of them, and which leave a channel of only about one-third of a mile in width ; these shoals extend to the southward about 4 miles ; and this is the length of the channel, in which there are from 4 to 7 fathoms, except at its beginning, where there are only 15 or 16 feet. The new lighthouse on Mobile Point exhibits a brilliant fixed light, at 55 feet above the level of the sea. Besides this light- house several buoys have been laid down to facilitate the navigation. On the Bar, in 17 feet of water, on the eastern side of the main ship channel, is a spar buoy, painted black above white, the lighthouse bearing, by compass, North, distance five and one half miles. Passing this buoy, the course in is N.N.W. 1/2 W. in 4, 5, 6, and 7, fathoms of water, until past Sand Isle [Little Pelican?] on the `larboard hand.

 E. 1/2 N. from the Sand Isle, and on the eastern side of the channel, is another spar- buoy, painted white above black, in 10 feet of water, lying on a very steep bank ; midway between which and the island is the main channel.

W.N.W. from the lighthouse, on the west bank, in two fathoms of water, is a third buoy, painted white. There is also an iron spindle or beacon on Sand or Little Pelican Isle.

To enter, bring the east end of Dauphin Island to N.W. by N., [N 26 degrees W.] and, following this course until Mobile Point and Fort bear N. 1/2 W. [North] at the distance of 4 miles, you will be very near to the step of the bar, in 7 fathoms : from this spot, instantly, and in another heave of the lead, you may be past the bar, and be again in deeper water. It ought always to be kept in mind that this bar, being so very steep, is continually altering when there is a swell on ; therefore, no vessel drawing above 10 feet ought ever to attempt crossing it in bad weather. The first direction of this bar is towards Dauphin Island, by which you ought to steer at more than the distance of a mile ; and, having passed the knee of the east shoals, direct yourself to the N. by E.1/2 E for Mobile Point, to the north of which you may anchor in 5 or 6 fathoms, but without shelter; for the bay is very large, and the current in it very rapid.

From Mobile Point to the fort and town, which are on the northernmost part of the west coast, the distance is 9 leagues, and the depth diminishes gradually from 3 to 2 fathoms and less water.

The Town of Mobile, at the mouth of the river, is built on the side of a hill. It was, formerly, a city of considerable importance, is pretty regular, of an oblong figure, and situated on the west bank of the river ; but the greater part was burnt down in the autumn of 1827.

 The Bay of Mobile terminates at a little to the north-eastward of the town, in a number of marshes and lagoons, which subject the inhabitants to fevers and agues in the hot season. Fort Conde, which stands near the bay, towards the lower end of the town, is a regular fortress of brick, and there is a neat square of barracks for soldiers. At a. mile below this, on Choctaw Point, is a harbour-light, for which a grant was made in 1828. This light, bearing N. by W. J W., leads directly up to Mobile.

Large vessels cannot go within 7 miles of the town, so great a part of the bay being shoal.
On the shores are great numbers of alligators, as well as in the rivers and lagoons.

 Mr. Darby says that, " Above the bay, the river of Mobile presents an appearance nearly similar to that of the Mississippi ; but the banks of the bay are generally high, and not subject to inundation. "Between the localities on the Mississippi and Mobile rivers there exists a very strong contrast. From the shortness of its course,- the latter is scarcely subject to any of the evils attending an inundated country, when compared with the former. The floods of the Mobile are sudden, and soon subside : they occur at most seasons of the year, but are most abundant in spring. Before the violent heats of summer, the waters of the Tombigbee and Alabama are abated, and their swamps are, in a great measure, drained."

 In February, 1815, H.M. ship Gorgon, Captain R. R. Bowden, lay at anchor, in 6 1/2 fathoms, sand and mud, clean good holding ground, three miles South of Dauphin Island, with the Bar of Mobile bearing E. by N. While in this situation, a strong gale of wind blew on shore from the S.W., and veered to the S.E. A long heavy sea set in, — the ship pitched deep with a heavy roll,— perhaps from an undertow : in this manner, with a whole cable, and top-gallant-masts struck, the ship rode perfectly safe, with little strain on her cable, for thirty hours, when the wind shifted to East, and from East to N.N.E., and blew very cold and heavy for thirty-six hours. The strong southerly swell, setting on shore, caused the ship to roll heavily, but perfectly safe and easy. Captain Bowden says, " I never observed either a S.E., S.W., or N.E., gale continue forty-eight hours, — seldom more than thirty. The N.E. gales are heaviest ; and perhaps southerly gales are not dangerous. Southerly gales veer round to the eastward,moderate a few hours, and are succeeded by strong N.E. and N.N.E. gales. N.E. gales veer to the N.W. and West, become moderate, and fine in a few hours. " Having rode out the gales from the S.S.E. and N.N.E. I weighed, on the 23rd of February, for the Havanna, the wind blowing strong from the N.E."

 The rise and fall of tide, near the Bar of Mobile, when uninfluenced by the wind, is about 2 feet on the full and change ; commonly, 16 to 18 inches.

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